The History

When Arun Sampanthavivat opened Arun's Restaurant in a storefront on Chicago's North Side, the decor was bare-bones, but its Thai food was extravagant. Eleven years and one move later, Arun's (pronounced ah-ROONS) is in a home that matches its food.

"I knew I wanted to do a fine dining restaurant from the outset," said Mr. Sampanthavivat, 48, Arun's executive chef and owner, who was born and raised in Thailand. "I'd serve Thai food -- the best, the most beautifully presented Thai food anyone had ever seen." The 1996 Zagat Survey apparently agrees, rating the food a 27 out of 30.

A dish of massaman curry shows Arun's at its best. Beef tenderloin slices are mounded in a bowl, with eggplant, bell peppers, string beans and cucumbers grouped in upright bundles secured with a bit of scallion. The dish is topped with a tangle of crisp, fried slivers of carrots.

Doing haute Thai at a time when Thai restaurants offered casual, budget-friendly dining was risky, especially after his partners bowed out before opening night. Mr. Sampanthavivat, then a political-science doctoral candidate at the University of Chicago, went it alone. In two months, The Chicago Tribune gave him a glowing three-star (of four) review, adding a half-star later.

His artistic talent isn't limited to food. His Buddhist-themed paintings, done with his brother Anawat, are on view in the 65-seat dining room.

Rangsan Sutcharit has done the day-to-day cooking since the restaurant moved in 1988, but Mr. Sampanthavivat creates all the dishes. Some feature nontraditional ingredients like veal or sun-dried tomatoes. "Thailand has always been a cultural crossroads, yet it remains uniquely Thai," Mr. Sampanthavivat said. "The same is true of my food."

The Ambience

Arun's Thai Restaurant for the first time, you are transported to the exotic land of the Thais. The restaurant's beautiful interior reflects the harmonious balance of contemporary simplicity and classical elegance. Cut and patterned panels of deep mahogany and other wood frame walls of vibrant color. Lustrous Thai silks and exquisite classical Thai paintings sparkle and delight. Take a few moments to stroll through the delightful haven.

The 2,500 square-foot dining room is designed to provide semi-private alcoves, with lines-of-sight into the full dining area. The elegant main dining area is bordered by a raised gallery along its south wall; from this charming gallery small, intimate tables overlook the main dining room through a series of Thai-style windows.

Examine Thai artifacts and craft work from Arun's private collection. As you enter the front vestibule, view the magnificent mural depicting the life and death of Buddha. Take in the many fine paintings, throughout the main dining area, illustrating the life of Buddha, classic Thai fairy-tales and mythology that will leave one with great fascination. The paintings are rich and subtle tones of the traditional Thai art periods.